Packing the wheel bearings properly with high quality grease is vital to longevity.
Thanks for all the great information brave. I always preferred packing my bearings myself, but a spinal cord injury has curtailed some of the things I can do. Your explanations gave me more things to wonder about. I always cleaned bearings prior to repacking, but don't know if my mechanic did and of course if you're getting paid by the job, a mechanical packer is the quick way to go. I was surprised about your comment about Moly grease, I was under the impression Moly was an excellent lubricant. I guess it all depends on the application.
After taking the picture I posted in the other post with the Spark on my lunch, I looked at the picture and realized how dirty my little car was. So, even though it was only 13 degrees, at least my car is clean.
Thanks Driver1... I could not wait. My festy is currently my daily driver so had to go the $$ route. Did find out it was the wrong alternator and the battery was too small.
So now, at least I have the correct parts :thumbup:
Yesterday:
The voltage regulator went out.... hooray! Of course it was over voltage so new battery too!
Today:
Picking up alternator that was special order, and probably new battery.
Festiva fact:
NOS alternator from Ford costs $689 and there are only two left in the country. Ford guy didn't hang up on me, even after a full two minutes of laughing!
God, it's cold this morning! Last night it rained and then froze. I was greeted this morning by a popfesty. I ended up using cold hose water to get the door to open. Eesh! Class...
Replaced front crank seal. One oil leak down!!! Took 3 hours including cleanup, not too painful.
not to bad of a job is it? lol. I though it would take way longer than necessary. About all I did on mine today was took off the sun visors and cleaned them really well in the house. Im impressed with how good they look.
Packing the wheel bearings properly with high quality grease is vital to longevity.
I recommend a milled EP2 grease like Esso Unirex EP-2. (use EP-1 grease in Alaska and Ladex sub zero in Nunavut)
Make sure the bearings are packed from the large end, if you are doing it by hand.
In other words, push the grease into the clean roller bearings from the back of the wider end, until it oozes through the narrow end of the race, without any air pockets. I once lab tested almost every grease available on the market. One of the most brutal tests was the ASTM D3527 wheel bearing test. You could tell from the slump and how much oil separated out into the cap, just how good the formulation of the grease really was. Esso mills all of their soap bases smooth before they add the oil to soften it, and then the Extreme Pressure (EP) additives.
Personally, I would never trust anyone but myself to pack my own bearings properly.
I don't just use the palm of ny hand, but a small spatula to force the grease into the race. I slowly rotate the bearing in my fingers while pushing in the grease with the spatula.
Did your mechanic use a mechanical bearing packer? Or did he do it by hand?
If you repack your wheel bearings, make sure you soak your bearings in solvent to get out every last bit of the old grease. Did you see the ugly gray grease in the Youtube video? It is a non-milled Molybdenum disulphide grease. Moly for short.
Don't use it.
Replaced rear wheel bearings. Left rear this time. When I bought it a few months ago, I had my mechanic pack both rears. The right side went out a couple of weeks later. Now the lefts. Is this common? I keep hearing that things that work on other cars don't work these cars, is this one of them? BTW, my Festy has 235K on it.
Seems hit and miss. Had to replace both of mine a few times until I had a set that lasted.
Replaced rear wheel bearings. Left rear this time. When I bought it a few months ago, I had my mechanic pack both rears. The right side went out a couple of weeks later. Now the lefts. Is this common? I keep hearing that things that work on other cars don't work these cars, is this one of them? BTW, my Festy has 235K on it.
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